Guyana Pinktoe Tarantula (Avicularia avicularia) Care Sheet
Care & Husbandry Video
This video shows you exactly how I keep and feed my Guyana Pinktoe tarantula. I show you the enclosures I use and the conditions I keep them from a spiderling to an adult tarantula. I also include some additional information on the Avicularia avicularia.
Enclosure Set Up
We demonstrate the enclosure set up and care for the Pink Toe Tarantula - Avicularia avicularia
Scientific Name: Avicularia avicularia
Common Name: Guyana Pinktoe, Common Pinktoe, South American Pinktoe, Pinktoe Tree Spider
Type: Arboreal
Category: New World
Endemic Location: Central & South America (Brazil, Guiana, French Guiana, Trinidad, Venezuela, Suriname, Bolivia and Peru
Body Length: 2.75” (7cm)
Diagonal Leg Span (DLS): 6” (15cm)
Urticating Hairs: Yes Type II
Growth Rate: fast
Life Expectancy: Females 12 years / Males 3-4 years
Recommended Experience Level: Beginner
Aviicularia avicularia, sometimes called the pinktoe tarantula or Guyana pinktoe, is a New World, arboreal tarantula. This species originated from Central- and South-America so they can be found from Costa Rica to Brazil as well as the southern Caribbean. They have a medium to fast growth rate and reach a maximum leg span around 5-6 inches. These T’s have mild venom and urticating hairs but they’re Type II meaning they do not kick their urticating hairs like many other New World Tarantulas, but they can rub off onto your skin if you come in direct contact with them. As an added line of defense, avics are known for shooting there poop at a perceived threat in an attempt to escape. Females of this species can live up to 12 years while males have a shorter life span of 3-4 years. This species can be quick and are prone to jumping, but are on the more docile of the temperament spectrum choosing to flee before showing any signs of defensive behavior. I have never received a threat pose from an Avicularia, personally, though I am sure it can happened if they’re annoyed and have no avenue of escape. Husbandry is fairly straight forward though many internet care sheets tend to over complicate. In my experience, cross ventilation is more important than arbitrary humidity level. The humidity needs for an Avic can easily be acheived with a larger water dish with plenty of surface area. I avoid misting their enclosures, despite what some of the older care sheets suggest. I have read many discussions that suggest over misting, high humidity and stagnant air could be the cause for unexplained Avic deaths. I keep my Avics, from slings to full grown adults all nearly the same. A size appropriate arboreal enclosure, meaning taller than it is wide...a good rule of thumb is at least 3x as tall as the tarantula is long. For the slings and juveniles, I usually glue a small plastic water dish to the side of the enclosure on the top half of the enclosure, but as adults I usually just keep a large water dish on the floor of t he enclosure. A small amount of substrate in the bottom, a stick or cork bark a little shorter than the enclosure and wide enough for the tarantula to hide behind, and then rest it at an angle so it can hide from view behind it and use it as anchor points should it choose to build web tunnels. You can also add some sphagnum moss on top of the substrate or hot glue some to the cork bark and occasionally sprinkle some water on it and keep it moist if you’re worried the air in your home is too dry as that can help maintain some humidity in the enclosure without requiring you to disturb them by misting daily. Adding some fake plants of leaves seems to make them feel a little more secure and stay out in the open more often. As i mentioned before, cross ventilation is key, so i make sure, whether it is a sling enclosure or an adult enclosure, there are air holes drilled on both sides providing ample ventilation. It seems stagnant air is what you want to avoid...and i have found that if i don’t add ventilation holes to the top of the enclosure and have enough on the sides, it will have plenty of exchanged air and maintain enough ventilation to make for a happy, healthy T. As far as feeding, I usually offer my adults 4 or 5 crickets once a week and remove any uneaten prey 24 hours later...as with most tarantulas, they will refuse food for weeks or months while in pre-molt. So if your T doesn’t take the food, don’t worry, just remove the prey and try again next week. I keep these tarantulas at room temperature, like with most of my T’s, if you’re comfortable, they’re comfortable.
