Costa Rican Zebra Stripped Knee Tarantula (Aphonopelma seemanni)

Care Sheet

Scientific Name: Aphonopelma seemanni

Common Name: Costa Rican Zebra Tarantula, Striped Knee Tarantula

Type: Terrestrial, Opportunistic Burrower

Endemic Location: Costa Rica, Honduras, Nicaragua, possibly Guatemala and other parts of Central America

Body Length: 3.5”  (9cm)

Diagonal Leg Span (DLS): 5-6” (15cm)

Growth Rate: Slow

Life Expectancy: Females 20 years / Males 5-10 years

Recommended Experience Level: Beginner

The Aphonopelma seemanni, or Costa Rican Zebra, or Stripe Knee Tarantula, is a terrestrial New World species found in Costa Rica and Central America. When you think about Costa Rica, you may assume it to be a humid and tropical environment, but there are varying environments in this area. This tarantula is most commonly found in the northern areas that are warmer and much drier, typically in the dry forests. Females of this species can live for around 20 years and reach maturity in about 5-6 years. Whereas males only live for about 7 years, reaching maturity in 2-3 years. Females can grow to nearly 5 or 6in with males being slightly smaller. These tarantulas will have a dark brown coat, complemented by bright white or beige-colored stripes running along its legs. This striped pattern is what gives the A. seemanni its “Zebra” and “Striped-Knee” common name. This species can be defensive and certainly isn't what I would consider docile, but would much rather retreat to its burrow than kick hair or five a threat pose. As spiderlings they spend the majority of their time burrowed deep into the substrate only occasionally coming out into the open usually to feed or have a drink. Once they are over 3” they tend to spend a little more time out in the open. Even as adults though, this species seems to prefer having the ability to burrow and, if given enough substrate, will make burrows all the way down to the bottom of the enclosure and can stay hidden in their burrow for months at a time. 

 I keep my spiderlings in a basic spiderling enclosure with plenty of depth for substrate. I fill the enclosure at least ⅔ with substrate so it has plenty of room to burrow. For slings under .75” i try to keep the substrate slightly damp and provide a tiny water dish if possible or drip water down the side of the enclosure. 

For juveniles, I move them into a basic juvenile enclosure and again make sure to give them plenty of substrate to burrow into filling the enclosure between half to two thirds the way up and provide a hide and water dish. I keep the water dish full and overflow it slightly every few weeks making sure not to flood their burrows. 

 And once they're full grown, I keep my adults in 5 or 10 gallon terrestrial enclosures with more width than height. I fill the enclosure up at least halfway or more with substrate. It doesn't seem to have a preference between dry and damp substrate. For a long time I kept the substrate damp and the t made some elaborate burrows. The damp substrate did lead to many issues with mold and mushrooms growing so I let it dry out and keep it mostly dry, only overflowing the water dish every few weeks and wetting down one corner of the enclosure and letting it dry out completely before overflowing again with no issues. I provide a nice sized hide and a few decorations. This tarantula does have a propensity to climb up the sides of the glass and across the top of the enclosure, especially for a few months after a rehouse, so make sure there is not much room from between the top of the enclosure and the floor so if it were to fall, it would not be harmed. 

As far as feeding, I give my smallest spiderlings under 0.5”  Flightless Fruit Flies or confused flour beetles twice a week. Once they are over half an inch, I will give them small crickets or pinhead roaches and prekill the prey if it looks too big. These slings are scavenger eaters at this size, and will usually feed on pre killed prey with no issues. I make sure to remove any uneaten prey 24 hours later and 2-3 days after a molt before attempting to feed again. 

For juveniles, I feed one or two small-medium crickets every 10-14 days. This species can refuse to eat for weeks or even months at a time, especially when in premolt. Often sealing themselves in their burrow for months without coming out into the open. Hunger strikes are common and to be expected with this species and not something to worry about. I wait about 4-7 days after a molt before attempting to feed.

And adults, I feed 4 or 5 adult crickets every three or four weeks. This T has an amazing feeding response but is skittish and will usually bolt into their burrow when I open the enclosure. So I just drop in the feeders and let them roam around a bit and within a few minutes or hours, the tarantula will usually resurface and feed. If not, I remove the feeders 24 hours later and attempt to feed a week or two later. Again, this species can and will go months upon months without eating, usually staying in hiding. So if your t is not eating, it may be in premolt and it could be a while before they show any interest in food. Be patient and don't panic. There is no need to dig up the tarantula out of its burrow and try to coax it to take a cricket. This will only cause unneeded stress for your tarantula. After a molt, I wait 10-14 days before feeding so they have plenty of time to harden up.

 This A. seemani, even though a cousin of the desert blond tarantula, does not seem to share its relaxed demeanor. My stripped knees spend very little time out on display and seem to prefer the security of their deep burrows at every stage in life. By not providing your adults with deep enough substrate to burrow, they may tend to stay out on display more often. But if you are more concerned with the well being of the tarantula, I highly recommend giving them plenty of depth as they seem to really like burrowing. Even though mine will spend months in hiding...for no particular reason, one day they just venture out to the surface and seem to hangout in plain sight for days or even weeks before going back into hiding. I have never attempted to handle this species because mine always seem too nervous and skittish to even consider trying. But I definitely wouldn’t describe this behavior as defensive.