Curly Hair Tarantula (Tliltocatl albopilosus) Care Sheet

Scientific Name: Tliltocatl albopilosus (formerly Brachypelma albopilosum)

Common Name: Curly Hair,  Honduran Curly Hair, Nicaraguan Curly Hair Tarantula

Type: Terrestrial

Category: New World

Endemic Location: Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica

Body Length: 3” (8cm)

Diagonal Leg Span (DLS): 6.5”(17cm)

Urticating Hairs: Yes Type I & III

Growth Rate: Slow

Life Expectancy: Females 25 years / Males 5 years

Recommended Experience Level: Beginner

The Tliltocatl albopilosus known as the Curly Hair Tarantula has recently seen the common name in the hobby split into the Nicaraguan Curly Hair (true form) and the Honduran Curly Hair (curly hair). This is a staple species in the hobby and has been around for a long time. It is a great beginner tarantula as they are hardy, easy to take care of, and fairly docile as adults. For a long time the Honduran Curly Hair was the main tarantula you saw in the hobby but many believe that they have been subject to accidental or intentional cross breeding with other closely related species muddying their bloodline while the Nicaraguan is rumored to be a thoroughbred species and are kept separate from the hobby form now for breeding purposes. Do to the lack of taxonomic research using DNA, it is impossible to say with any certainty that they are different species, thoroughbred or hybrid, or just local variants. It is widely believed that if you purchase a Nicaraguan Curly Hair from a reputable breeder you are getting a thoroughbred species. There are some visual differences in the tarantulas as some are more golden brown while others are a much darker, almost black color. What they have in common is the long, wiry, curly hairs that make them almost look fluffy. Visually they look very similar and for not are classified under the same genus.

    This species is a NEW WORLD terrestrial, semi-burrowing tarantula that can be found in Honduras, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica in regions of the rain forest and found near rivers, at the base of trees and in areas of the rain forest that have been cleared mostly along the Atlantic side of these countries. Being a New World tarantula their venom is not medically significant but they do possess urticating hairs that they can kick around their burrow on the webbing as well as kick into the air if they feel threatened. Urticating hairs can cause itching and even blisters, though I find this species hairs to not be as irritating as other species and do to their docile nature, mine has never kicked hairs at me in defense. They are slow moving, relaxed and very rarely show a threat pose. 

    I keep this species like I keep all my new world terrestrial tarantulas. They do not have any special requirements for temperature and humidity and are very easy and straightforward when it comes to care. I keep my spiderlings in small acrylic amac boxes. I have used both the honey comb style terrestrial box that is wider than tall as well as the container store style enclosure that is deeper than it is wide. I prefer using the latter with this species as I have found they really like to burrow deep as spiderlings, but either will be fine. I keep the substrate for my spiderlings a little more damp than I do for larger specimens but avoid keeping things swampy. This can be accomplished by overflowing the water dish once a week or dripping water down the side corner of the enclosure. I try to keep the lower levels of substrate damp while allowing the top layers to remain dry, giving the tarantula the option to burrow deeper for more humid conditions or staying out on top for more arid conditions. I keep them on coco fiber and provide a little sphagnum moss and a tiny piece of cork bark for a hide.

   I keep my juveniles in a clear, flush lid amac box from the container store i will link in the description of this video,that measures 4x4x5 in (10x10x12.7cm). I use either a vent or dill or melt vent holes into the side and or top of the enclosure. I fill the enclosure up about ⅔ with coco fiber, provide a hide and water dish and usually a small fake plant and a little sphagnum moss and broken up dried leaves mostly for a natural look. I still pour a little water down the corner of the enclosure to keep the bottom layer of the substrate a little more damp than the top layers. My juveniles still tend to burrow all the way down to the bottom but spend a lot more time out in the open on top. They are notorious for filling up their water dish with dirt or flipping it over, so I have to check on their water dish at least 3x a week. 

   Once they have outgrown that enclosure I will move them into a 2.5-5 gallon enclosure filled up at least halfway with eco earth coco fiber. I provide a large water dish, a cork bark hide, and some fake plants or moss for aesthetic purposes. I do not recommend using live plants with this species as the plants will require more light and moisture than the tarantula seems to prefer, but most importantly because this t will more than likely dig them up or cover them with dirt. I currently have my adult Curly Hair in a large 10 gallon enclosure with a foam back covered in eco earth and moss as this is one of my display tarantulas I keep above my desk at work. I like to keep the tarantulas I prominently display in larger, more visually appealing enclosures. 

This species makes for an excellent display T as adults because they spend a lot of time out of their hide and on display. They look very cool with their fluffy appearance are are very popular with people that have little to no exposure to tarantulas. That coupled with the fact they are docile, slow moving, and rarely kick hairs or give threat postures make them a great ambassador for winning over the hearts and minds of non tarantula keepers and arachnophobes. 

  When it comes to feeding, I feed my smallest spiderlings Flightless Fruit Flies and flour beetles as well as pre killed nymph roaches or pre killed small crickets, avoiding feeding them any prey larger than the tarantula. If I don't have anything small enough available to feed, i will pre kill the smallest cricket I have and drop it in its enclosure for it to scavenge or just use legs from larger crickets or cut the cricket in half. I always make sure I remove any uneaten prey 24 hours later and never leave uneaten pieces of prey in the enclosure to help prevent mold and mites.

 I feed my juveniles 3 or 4 small - medium crickets once every week or two depending on the size of their abdomen. I don't use any prey larger than ⅔ the size of the tarantula and if i have to feed something larger, i will smash the preys head before dropping it in the enclosure. This species can go weeks without eating, so i always check up on the 24 hours after feeding and remove any prey they didn't eat and try again in a week or two. I normally wait 5-7 days after a molt before feeding a juvenile again. The larger the tarantula, the longer I wait before feeding again to give them plenty of time to harden up. 

 And for adults, I feed my T. albo about 5 or 6 large crickets every 2-3 weeks and cut back to once a month as they get closer to premolt and seem less interested in food. I still make sure to remove any uneaten prey and boluses within 24 hours and wait 10-14 days after a molt before attempting to feed again. I also mix up their prey with meal worms, roaches, and other feeders from time to time to give them a little variety in their diet. 

   This tarantula is a staple in the hobby for good reason. They are very visually appealing, relaxed, easy to care for and can be kept at room temperature with no special requirements. If you are comfortable, your tarantula is comfortable. Though they tend to be more shy and hide a lot as spiderlings and even juveniles, once they are over 3 or 4 inches they spend the majority of the time out where you can easily view them. And though they are slow moving as adults, you should be aware that spiderling and juvies are much more skittish and will quickly dart into their burrows when disturbed and caution should be used anytime you have their enclosure open as they can quickly bolt out an opening and escape their enclosure faster than you may be able to react. So be mindful and have a catch cup handy when feeding and rehousing them when they are small.  This is definitely a species you need in your collection before you can call it complete. It makes an excellent tarantula for anyone new to the hobby but is equally as fascinating and enjoyable for more experienced keepers.This species is widely available and fairly inexpensive and a lot of online breeders offer them as freebies when you order tarantulas from them, so if you have the opportunity to pick up one of these species, don't pass it up!