Mexican Rose Grey Tarantula

Tliltocatl verdezi

(formerly Brachypelma verdezi)

Care Guide

Mexican Rose Grey Care Video

This video is actually about the Tliltocatl vagans, but as their husbandry is nearly identical to the Tliltocatl verdezi, this video will help you see how to set up their enclosures and care for the Mexican Rose Gray Tarantula.


Tliltocatl verdezi Care Guide

Mexican Rose Grey Tarantula

Revision Date: March 2025

Introduction

Tliltocatl verdezi, formerly classified under Brachypelma, is a stunning New World terrestrial tarantula native to Mexico. It is known for its reddish-brown carapace, dark legs, and striking rose-grey coloration on the abdomen, giving it a unique appearance compared to other Tliltocatl species. Although not as widely known as the Tliltocatl albopilosus or Tliltocatl vagans, this species is just as hardy, slow-growing, and easy to care for—making it an excellent option for both beginner and experienced keepers.

Quick Species Snapshot

  • Scientific Name: Tliltocatl verdezi (formerly Brachypelma verdezi)

  • Common Name: Mexican Rose Grey Tarantula

  • Type: Terrestrial, Opportunistic Burrower

  • Category: New World

  • Endemic Location: Mexico

  • Diagonal Leg Span (DLS): Up to 5.5” (14 cm)

  • Urticating Hairs: Yes (Types I & III)

  • Growth Rate: Slow

  • Life Expectancy:

    • Females: Up to 25 years

    • Males: Around 5–7 years

  • Recommended Experience Level: Beginner

Taxonomy & Research Update

Originally described under the Brachypelma genus, Tliltocatl verdezi was reclassified in 2019 following molecular and morphological studies that distinguished Tliltocatl from Brachypelma. The genus name Tliltocatl originates from Nahuatl, meaning "black spider."

This taxonomic revision was essential in clarifying the evolutionary relationships among Mexican tarantulas, many of which have long been sought after in the hobby. Like other Tliltocatl species, T. verdezi is protected under CITES regulations, meaning wild-caught specimens cannot be exported legally, ensuring that captive breeding remains the only ethical means of acquiring these tarantulas.

What Makes Tliltocatl verdezi Special?

  • Unique Coloration: Unlike the deep black of T. vagans or the golden hues of T. albopilosus, this species features a red-tinted carapace and greyish-pink setae, making it stand out among Tliltocatl species.

  • Hardy & Low-Maintenance: Thrives in semi-arid conditions, making it ideal for keepers who prefer an easy-to-maintain setup.

  • Docile Yet Active: While juveniles can be skittish, adults tend to be calm and frequently visible, making them excellent display tarantulas.

  • Beginner-Friendly: Due to their slow growth, long lifespan, and relatively relaxed temperament, Tliltocatl verdezi is a great option for new tarantula keepers.

Natural Habitat & What That Means for Enclosure Setup

In the wild, T. verdezi is found in the arid regions of Mexico, where it inhabits burrows at the base of vegetation or in loose, sandy soil. In captivity, providing deep substrate for burrowing is beneficial but not mandatory, as many individuals adapt well to hides instead of digging their own burrows.

Housing & Substrate – Terrestrial Setup

Spiderlings

Juveniles

  • Enclosure Size:
    Use a medium enclosure (e.g., Medium Slider Crib, 6" or 8" Tarantula Cube, or Medium Cuboid) that is at least 3–4× the tarantula’s leg span.

  • Substrate:
    Fill the enclosure 1/2 to 2/3 full with Terra Aranea by The Bio Dude. This ensures ample burrowing depth while minimizing fall risk.

  • Humidity:
    Keep the substrate mostly dry with a full water dish; occasionally overflow one corner to create a slightly damp area.

  • Additional Features:
    Provide a half cork bark round for a secure hide.

Adults

  • Enclosure Size:
    Use a large enclosure (e.g., Large Slider Crib, 12" Cube Switch, 12" Cube, 18" Cube, or Terrestrial XL) that is at least 3× the tarantula’s leg span (ideally 4–5× for enhanced natural behavior while still minimizing escape risks).

  • Substrate:
    Fill the enclosure 1/2 to 2/3 full with Terra Aranea by The Bio Dude to provide ample depth for burrowing while reducing the risk of injury from falls.

  • Additional Features:
    Include a secure hide (preferably a half cork bark round) and a shallow water dish. Ensure the enclosure is a horizontal rectangle (wider than it is deep) with secure ventilation and a tight, secure lid to prevent escapes.

Note:
The general rule of thumb for tarantula enclosures is that the enclosure should be no smaller than three times the tarantula’s leg span for spiderlings, 3–4× for juveniles, and 3–4× for adults. This ensures sufficient space for natural burrowing while minimizing fall risk. Remember, tarantulas are escape artists, so always verify that ventilation holes, lids, and gaps are too small for your tarantula to squeeze through.

Affiliate: Please use Tarantula Cribs (affiliate code TTC10) and Terra Aranea by The Bio Dude for substrate.

Temperature & Humidity

  • Temperature: Maintain between 68–76°F (20–24°C).

  • Humidity: Moderate (50–65%). Let the top layer of substrate dry out between waterings to prevent mold.

Feeding Schedule

Spiderlings

  • Frequency:
    Feed twice a week.

  • Prey:
    Offer small prey such as flightless fruit flies, confused flour beetles, or pre-killed tiny crickets/roach nymphs. Remove any uneaten prey after 24 hours. increase the size of the prey as the spider grows. Prekill any prey that is over 2/3 the size of the sling. For more detailed information on feeding spiderlings, watch this video: How To Feed Spiderlings & Scorplings (Baby Tarantulas & Scorpions)

  • Post-Molt:
    Wait 24–48 hours after a molt before feeding. Ensure that the tarantula’s fangs are solid black and its exoskeleton is not soft or shiny.

Juveniles

  • Frequency:
    Feed every 7–10 days.

  • Prey:
    Provide 2–3 small to medium crickets or a medium Dubia roach.

  • Feeding Guidelines:

    • If the abdomen is thinner than the widest part of the carapace, feed more prey more often.

    • If the abdomen is wider than the carapace, feed less prey, less often.
      This strategy helps prevent obesity, which can lead to molting complications or increase the risk of an abdomen rupture from even a small fall.

  • Post-Molt:
    Wait 3–7 days after a molt before feeding, ensuring that the tarantula’s fangs are solid black and its exoskeleton is fully hardened.

Adults

  • Frequency:
    Feed every 2–3 weeks (or as needed).

  • Prey:
    Offer 4–5 large crickets or one large Dubia roach.

  • Feeding Guidelines:

    • If the abdomen is thinner than the carapace’s widest part, increase feeding frequency.

    • If the abdomen is wider than the carapace, reduce feeding frequency.
      This is crucial to avoid obesity, which can interfere with proper molting or cause dangerous issues such as an abdomen rupture.

  • Post-Molt:
    Wait 5–10 days after a molt before feeding, ensuring that the tarantula’s fangs are solid black and its exoskeleton is fully hardened.

Behavior & Temperament

  • Generally calm but can be skittish when younger.

  • Rarely defensive, though they may flick urticating hairs if threatened.

  • Active but not overly aggressive feeders.

  • Adults spend more time on display, while juveniles tend to burrow.

Breeding Tliltocatl verdezi in Captivity

Tliltocatl verdezi, commonly known as the Mexican Rose Grey Tarantula, is a terrestrial species native to Mexico. Noted for its subtle coloration and manageable temperament, this species is suitable for both novice and experienced keepers. Breeding T. verdezi in captivity requires an understanding of their environmental needs and reproductive behaviors.

Sexual Maturity & Pairing

  • Male Maturity: Males typically reach maturity within 2–3 years, characterized by longer legs and the development of bulbous pedipalps for sperm transfer.

  • Female Maturity: Females generally mature around 3–4 years, achieving a robust size indicative of reproductive readiness.

  • Pre-Pairing Preparation: We should ensure the female is well-fed before introducing the male to minimize the risk of cannibalism. Providing an enclosure with adequate substrate depth for burrowing and a suitable hide can facilitate a more natural interaction during pairing.

Mating Process

  • Introduce the male into the female’s enclosure during the evening or nighttime when tarantulas are more active.

  • The male will typically perform courtship behaviors, such as tapping or drumming, to signal his presence.

  • If receptive, the female may respond similarly or remain still, allowing the male to approach and attempt copulation.

  • After successful mating, promptly remove the male to prevent potential aggression from the female.

Egg Sac Production

  • If fertilized, the female may produce an egg sac approximately 2–3 months after mating.

  • Maintain temperatures around 70–85°F (21–29°C) with humidity levels between 65–80%, ensuring adequate ventilation to prevent mold growth.

  • An egg sac can contain a substantial number of eggs, with reports indicating clutches ranging from 200 to 500 eggs.

Egg Sac Handling (Optional)

  • Some breeders choose to remove the egg sac from the female after 4 weeks for artificial incubation.

  • If left with the mother, spiderlings (slings) will typically emerge within 6–8 weeks and undergo their first molt to the second instar stage within 3–4 weeks thereafter.

Raising Spiderlings

  • T. verdezi spiderlings exhibit a moderate growth rate and require stable humidity with proper ventilation.

  • Provide enclosures with sufficient substrate depth to accommodate their burrowing nature, including structures for hiding and web attachment.

  • Feed them appropriately sized prey, such as pinhead crickets or flightless fruit flies, every 3–4 days to support healthy development.

Challenges & Considerations

  • Temperament: T. verdezi is generally docile but can be skittish. While they rarely display defensive behaviors, caution is advised during maintenance to prevent escapes or accidental injury.

  • Humidity and Ventilation: Maintaining proper humidity levels is crucial, as spiderlings are particularly susceptible to desiccation. Ensure enclosures are well-ventilated to prevent mold growth.

With their subtle beauty and manageable care requirements, Tliltocatl verdezi has become a popular species among tarantula enthusiasts. Their moderate growth rate and relatively high reproductive output make captive breeding essential to maintain healthy populations in the hobby. By focusing on these efforts, we can reduce the need for wild-caught specimens, ensuring the sustainability of this remarkable species for future generations.

Final Thoughts

Tliltocatl verdezi is an underrated gem in the tarantula hobby. With its beautiful reddish-brown carapace, slow growth, and docile temperament, it makes an excellent display tarantula and a great choice for keepers of all experience levels. While not as well-known as T. albopilosus, this species is a fantastic addition to any collection.

With proper care, including:

  • A secure, well-ventilated terrestrial enclosure

  • A deep substrate layer

  • A stable feeding routine based on abdomen size

This species can thrive for decades in captivity.

Additional Recommendations

Curly Hair Tarantula: Nature's Masterpiece of Adaptation

Tliltocatl albopilosus.

Step into the world of the Curly Hair Tarantula in this captivating nature documentary, "Curly Hair Tarantula: Nature's Masterpiece of Adaptation." Join us on a mesmerizing journey through the landscapes of the Tliltocatl albopilosus native habitat as we uncover the secrets behind this remarkable arachnid's survival skills. Get ready to be amazed by the elegance and resilience of this natural masterpiece.

My TARANTULA Laid EGGS! Tliltocatl vagans

Mexican Red Rump

FINALLY! My Tliltocatl vagans (formerly Brachypelma vagans) dropped an egg sac MONTHS after having been paired and EATING my male Mexican Red Rump Tarantula. I was worried for many months that the pairing was not successful and that the male died in vain, but ALAS we have been SUCCESFUL! Not only did she drop an egg sac, I was able to capture the ENTIRE process on camera. From her laying down a web mat, actually secreting the eggs, and then rolling them into a ball to make her egg sac that is she is currently guarding and rotating 24/7! Hopefully in a month or so we will have ANOTHER follow up video where I can show you the babies or eggs with legs! I hope you enjoy!

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Tliltocatl schroederi