Phidippus regius

Regal Jumping Spider Care Guide

Phidippus regius

Revision Date: March 2025

Introduction

If you’ve ever wanted a pet spider but weren’t sure where to start, the Regal Jumping Spider (Phidippus regius) might just be the perfect choice. Unlike tarantulas, which tend to be more reclusive, these little spiders are active, inquisitive, and incredibly intelligent. With their big, expressive eyes, bold personalities, and almost playful interactions with their environment, they’re often described as the “puppy dogs” of the arachnid world.

What makes Phidippus regius such an amazing pet? For starters, they recognize movement, show curiosity about their surroundings, and can even learn to associate their keeper with food and interaction. Instead of relying on webbing to catch prey, they actively stalk and pounce on their meals with impressive precision—watching one hunt is like seeing a tiny predator in action. They also display a level of problem-solving and awareness that you wouldn’t expect from a spider.

Jumping spiders are beginner-friendly, require minimal space, and are diurnal, meaning they’re active during the day—perfect for keepers who want to observe their behavior without having to wait until nighttime. Their care is straightforward, making them an ideal choice for both experienced keepers and those new to the hobby. Whether you're drawn to their fascinating hunting techniques, their ability to recognize and respond to stimuli, or just their sheer cuteness, Phidippus regius is one of the most rewarding spiders you can keep.

In this guide, we’ll cover everything you need to know about keeping, feeding, and housing these intelligent little hunters. If you’re looking for a spider that’s as fun to watch as it is easy to care for, you’re in the right place.

Quick Species Snapshot

• Scientific Name: Phidippus regius

• Common Name: Regal Jumping Spider

• Type: Arboreal

• Native Region: Southeastern United States (including Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, and extending northward to states like West Virginia), and the Caribbean

• Size: 0.5"–0.9" (1.2–2.3 cm)

• Lifespan: 1–3 years (females live longer than males)

• Temperament: Generally curious and bold, can be skittish

• Difficulty Level: Beginner-friendly

Etymology & Taxonomic Revisions

The genus Phidippus comes from Greek, meaning "lover of horses," likely referring to their strong jumping ability. The species name regius means "royal" or "regal," which fits because this is one of the most striking and popular jumping spiders in the hobby.

Phidippus regius has remained fairly stable in classification, but there have been discussions about potential subspecies and cryptic species within the Phidippus genus. Geographic variations in color and size, particularly between Florida, Caribbean, and northern populations, have been noted. As molecular studies continue, we may learn more about possible distinct lineages within this species.

Why Jumping Spiders Make a Great First Pet Spider

If you're new to keeping spiders, a jumping spider—especially Phidippus regius—is one of the best places to start. Compared to tarantulas, they don’t live as long, are more active during the day, and interact more with their environment (and with you!).

Key Differences Between Jumping Spiders and Tarantulas

• Lifespan: Jumping spiders live around 1–3 years, while tarantulas can live anywhere from 10 to 30 years depending on the species.

• Size: Phidippus regius maxes out at under an inch, whereas tarantulas can range from 2 inches to a massive 11 inches.

• Temperament: Jumping spiders tend to be bold, curious, and interactive, while most tarantulas are more reclusive, with some species being defensive.

• Handling: Jumping spiders can be handled carefully but will jump unpredictably, whereas tarantulas are best left alone due to their fragility and potential for defensive behavior.

• Enclosure Size: Jumping spiders need small, vertically oriented enclosures, whereas tarantulas require larger setups that vary based on their species and burrowing habits.

• Activity Level: Jumping spiders are diurnal and actively hunt their prey, while tarantulas are nocturnal and rely on ambush tactics.

• Feeding Frequency: Jumping spiders need to eat every 2–5 days, while tarantulas can go a week or more between meals.

A Stepping Stone to Owning a Tarantula

If you’re thinking about getting a tarantula but aren’t quite ready for the commitment, a jumping spider is a great way to dip your toes into the hobby. Their care is simple, their behavior is fun to watch, and they don’t live nearly as long as a tarantula, so you’re not making a decade-long commitment. Plus, if you enjoy keeping a jumping spider, odds are you’ll love keeping tarantulas too.

Natural Habitat & Behavior

Phidippus regius is a diurnal, highly active, and intelligent species. In the wild, they live in trees, shrubs, and even human structures, spinning small silk retreats in bark crevices, leaves, or hidden corners. Unlike tarantulas, they don’t burrow or rely heavily on webbing—these spiders are hunters that rely on their incredible vision and jumping ability to catch prey.

Housing & Substrate – Arboreal Setup

Spiderlings

• Enclosure Size: Tarantula Cribs Treehouse Mini, Coffin Crib Mini, Treehouse Extra Small, Sling Crib, 336 Canopy Understory - Mid Opening Enclosure, etc. They have an entire section of Jumping Spider enclosures for all sizes.

• Substrate: Fill the bottom 1/3 of the enclosure with Terra Aranea by The Bio Dude. I keep it slightly damp, but never soggy.

• Decor: Dry sphagnum moss or a few pieces of excelsior will give them something to climb around on and places to hide. Some people like to use pipe cleaners or small plastic plants.

• Water: Gently mist the inside of the enclosure so they can drink the droplets off the side of the enclosure.

Juveniles

• Enclosure Size: Tarantula Cribs Treehouse Switch Medium, Medium Treehouse, Coffin Crib Medium, Crib 360 - 8 inch Arboreal

• Substrate: Same as spiderlings—1/3 filled with Terra Aranea by The Bio Dude.

• Decor: Provide a vertical piece of cork bark or branches or small sticks secured with substrate, along with fake or live plants for additional cover. This will give them some enrichment and places to climb and hide. Keep in mind they also need room to jump around, so do not go over board with the decorations and plants.

• Water: A small water dish should always be available.

Adults

• Enclosure Size: Tarantula Cribs Medium Treehouse, Treehouse Switch -Medium, Large Treehouse, Treehouse Switch - Large, Large Coffin Crib, Canopy with Sliding Lid

• Substrate: 1/3 of the enclosure filled with Terra Aranea by The Bio Dude slightly damp, but never soggy.

• Decor: Provide a vertical piece of cork bark or branches or small sticks secured with substrate, along with fake or live plants for additional cover. This will give them some enrichment and places to climb and hide. Keep in mind they also need room to jump around, so do not go over board with the decorations and plants. There are also jumping spider hides available that look pretty cool and attack to the side of the enclosure using magnets.

• Water: A larger water dish at the bottom and an additional smaller dish higher in the enclosure can help ensure hydration.

How people set up their jumping spider enclosures is as varied as the people keeping them. When it comes to husbandry—especially for a species as adaptable and widespread as Phidippus regius—there’s more than one right answer. You can go fully bioactive with a naturalistic setup or keep it basic and simple, as long as you’re providing excellent care.

One of the most debated topics is enclosure size. Some keepers are convinced that an adult jumping spider does just fine in an 8-inch tall enclosure, while others argue that they need more room. Personally, I keep all my adult P. regius in the Large Treehouse, and sometimes in the 12" Cube Switch, both in a bioactive setup. I like giving them plenty of space to explore, hunt, and jump around. While it’s true that they spend a lot of time hanging out in their web hammocks or on the enclosure walls, they also take an interest in their surroundings. These are possibly the most intelligent spiders on the planet, so I think it’s important to provide them with enough space and enrichment.

That being said, keeping jumping spiders in smaller enclosures isn’t necessarily wrong. Many keepers who use smaller setups also take their spiders out more often and interact with them for longer periods than I do. So, you could argue that those spiders get just as much enrichment—if not more—despite having a smaller living space.

I understand that it might seem crazy to spend $70–$100 on an enclosure when the spider itself only cost $30–$40, but I think we should view enclosures and supplies as part of the overall cost of keeping a jumping spider, not just an extra expense. As keepers, we are custodians of these animals, and it’s our responsibility to give them the best possible life while they’re in our care. Personally, I wouldn’t keep a jumping spider in anything smaller than a Medium Treehouse, but as long as their needs are met, there’s flexibility in how you set up their home.

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Temperature & Humidity

• Temperature: Maintain between 68–76°F (20–24°C)

• Humidity: 65–75%; maintain with water dish and occasional moistening of sphagnum moss, ensuring proper ventilation to prevent stagnant air.

Feeding Schedule

Spiderlings

• Frequency:
  Feed 2-3 a week.

• Prey:
  Offer small prey such as flightless fruit flies, confused flour beetles, or pre-killed tiny crickets/roach nymphs. Remove any uneaten prey after 24 hours. increase the size of the prey as the spider grows. Prekill any prey that is over 2/3 the size of the sling. For more detailed information on feeding spiderlings, watch this video: How To Feed Spiderlings

• Post-Molt:
  Spiderling Phidippus regius recover from molts much faster than juveniles and adults since they’re growing at a rapid pace. After molting, they typically stay in their web hammock for a short period, sometimes less than a day, before becoming active again. Because their exoskeletons harden quickly, most spiderlings will be ready to eat within 24 hours of emerging. However, if they seem sluggish or uninterested, give them another day before trying again. When offering food, stick to something small and manageable, like flightless fruit flies. At this stage, frequent feeding is important to support their growth, but always make sure they’re actively hunting before offering food.

Juveniles

• Frequency:
  Feed every 3-4 days.

• Prey:
  Provide 2–3 small to medium or a small Dubia roach. Do not feed the prey larger than they are, 2/3’s their size is best. If you are worried the prey may harm your spider, crush the preys head just before putting it in the enclosure.

• Feeding Guidelines:

  • If the abdomen is thinner than the widest part of the carapace, feed more prey more often.

  • If the abdomen is wider than the carapace, feed less prey, less often.
    This strategy helps prevent obesity, which could lead to molting complications.

• Post-Molt:
  Juvenile Phidippus regius will usually stay in their web hammock for a day or two, letting their new exoskeleton harden. Once they emerge and start moving around, that’s your signal that they’re ready for food again. Most juveniles will accept prey within 24–72 hours post-molt, but some may need a little longer. Just keep an eye on their activity level, when they start actively exploring, it's time to offer them a small, easy-to-catch meal like a flightless fruit fly or pinhead cricket.

Adults

• Frequency:
  Feed once or twice a week (or as needed).

• Prey:
  Offer 2-3 medium- large crickets or one large Dubia roach. As adults, this species can easily take down prey nearly twice its size. I typically only feed my jumping spiders once a week, but I give them 2 or 3 crickets at once instead of just one cricket at a time spaced out over the week. But the frequency and amount of their feeding should be based on their appearance rather than a strict time table. A healthy jumping spider's abdomen should appear plump but not overly swollen.

• Feeding Guidelines:

  • If the abdomen is thinner than the carapace’s widest part, increase feeding frequency.

  • If the abdomen is wider than the carapace, reduce feeding frequency.
    This is crucial to avoid obesity, which could interfere with proper molting.

• Post-Molt:
  After molting, your Phidippus regius will usually stay tucked away in its web hammock, giving its new exoskeleton time to harden. Don’t rush to feed them just yet. The best indicator that they’re ready to eat again is when they start exploring their enclosure. Some jumping spiders are good to go within a day or two of emerging, while others might take up to a week before they show interest in food again. It really depends on the individual. The key is to watch their behavior, once they’re active and responsive, you can start offering food again.

Sexual Dimorphism in Phidippus regius

One of the coolest things about Phidippus regius is how strikingly different males and females look—a perfect example of sexual dimorphism. Even at a quick glance, you can usually tell them apart just by their coloration and size.

Females are the larger and more robust of the two, often growing up to 0.75–0.9 inches (2–2.3 cm) in body length. Their coloration varies, but they are usually shades of gray, brown, or orange with distinct white markings on the abdomen. Some females even have an iridescent blue or green sheen on their chelicerae, adding to their unique appearance.

Males, on the other hand, are smaller and sleeker, typically maxing out at 0.5–0.7 inches (1.2–1.8 cm) in body length. They are almost always solid black with stark white markings, giving them a more uniform, high-contrast look. Their chelicerae are a brilliant metallic blue or green, which really stands out in the right lighting.

You can start seeing these differences develop once the spiders hit their juvenile stage, usually after a few molts. However, true adult coloration and size differences don’t fully set in until their final molt. If you’re raising a group of P. regius from spiderlings, you’ll likely start noticing some getting bigger and showing more muted tones (females), while others stay smaller and become darker and more contrasted (males).

Beyond appearance, males and females also behave a little differently. Males tend to be more active and exploratory, especially as they reach sexual maturity, while females are often more sedentary, spending more time in their web hammocks. If you’re planning to breed them, these differences are good to keep in mind when identifying potential pairings.

Breeding Phidippus regius in Captivity

Breeding Phidippus regius (Regal Jumping Spider) is relatively simple and can be a rewarding experience. This species is prolific in captivity, making it an excellent choice for those interested in breeding spiders. While wild populations remain stable, captive breeding helps ensure sustainable availability in the hobby and reduces the need for wild collection.

Sexual Maturity & Pairing

• Male Maturity: Males typically reach maturity between 6–8 months, developing enlarged pedipalps for sperm transfer.

• Female Maturity: Females take slightly longer, usually maturing between 8–12 months.

• Pre-Pairing Preparation: Make sure the female is well-fed before introducing the male to minimize aggressive behavior. Providing a spacious enclosure with multiple exit routes for the male can also improve pairing success.

Mating Process

• Introduce the male carefully, ideally in the evening when they are most active.

• The male will perform a courtship display, using his pedipalps and front legs to signal to the female.

• If receptive, the female will allow the male to approach and mate. If uninterested, she may chase or attack him.

• After mating, remove the male immediately, as females can become aggressive.

Egg Sac Production

• A successfully fertilized female will produce an egg sac within 3–5 weeks.

• She will construct a protective silk retreat where she guards the eggs.

• The egg sac can contain anywhere from 50 to 200 eggs, depending on the female’s size and health.

Egg Sac Handling (Optional)

• If left with the mother, eggs will hatch in approximately 3–4 weeks.

• Some breeders choose to remove the egg sac after 2–3 weeks for artificial incubation, but this is not necessary for most cases.

• Once hatched, spiderlings (1st instar) will remain with the mother for a short period before dispersing.

Raising Spiderlings

• Separate spiderlings into individual enclosures to prevent cannibalism.

• Feed them flightless fruit flies or pinhead crickets every 2–3 days.

• Maintain good humidity levels and provide small anchor points for webbing.

Challenges & Considerations

• Cannibalism Risk: Jumping spiderlings must be separated early, or they will prey on each other.

• Small Size & Delicacy: Newly hatched spiderlings are tiny and require frequent feedings and close monitoring.

• Short Lifespan: Unlike tarantulas, jumping spiders only live a few years, so breeding opportunities are limited.

Wild-Caught vs. Captive-Bred Specimens

Most jumping spiders in the pet trade are likely wild-caught. Since Phidippus regius is widespread and prolific in its natural habitat, wild collection has not significantly impacted populations. However, captive breeding is still the most responsible option for sustainability and overall health of specimens in the hobby.

Pros & Cons of Wild-Caught vs. Captive-Bred

• Wild-Caught Females: There’s always a chance that a wild-caught female may already be gravid and will lay an egg sac unexpectedly. This could result in dozens or even hundreds of spiderlings to care for.

• Captive-Bred Specimens: These are generally healthier, more accustomed to captivity, and free of potential parasites or environmental stressors.

• Ethical Considerations: Supporting captive-bred populations ensures that Phidippus regius remains abundant in the wild while allowing keepers to enjoy these fascinating spiders without contributing to unnecessary collection.

By prioritizing captive breeding, we can reduce the demand for wild-caught specimens and ensure the continued availability of Phidippus regius in the hobby. If you decide to breed this species, be prepared to manage a large number of spiderlings and provide proper care for them until they can be rehomed. Jumping spiders are surprisingly easy to breed. Males and females reach sexual maturity at around 6-8 months, with females taking a bit longer. If you’re planning to pair them, make sure the female is well-fed beforehand to minimize aggression toward the male.

Unexpected Egg Sacs in Wild-Caught Females

If you buy a wild-caught female, be aware that she might already be gravid. Jumping spider females can store sperm for weeks or even months after mating, so it’s possible she’ll produce an egg sac out of nowhere. If this happens, expect anywhere from 50 to 200 spiderlings.

If your spider lays an egg sac, leave her alone—she’ll guard it until the babies emerge. Once they hatch, you’ll need to separate the spiderlings into individual enclosures to prevent cannibalism. Feeding them flightless fruit flies and maintaining good ventilation and humidity are crucial. Raising spiderlings can be rewarding, but it’s a lot of work, so make sure you're ready for the challenge. If raising spiderlings is not something you are interested in, reach out to your local invertebrate dealers and see if they might be able to take the egg sac from you. They might be willing to accept the egg and raise them. You can also reach out to other spider keepers in your area through message boards and Facebook groups and find someone to take care of the spiderlings. Of course, if you live in an area where the P. regius is native, you can always release the spiderling into nature. Normally releasing any animal into the wild would be extremely irresponsible, but considering the female is most likely wild caught, the spiderlings would be wild, so I do not see an issue in this particular instance. That being said, if this species is not native in your location, NEVER release invasive species into your local ecosystem.

Final Thoughts

The Regal Jumping Spider (Phidippus regius) is one of the most engaging and rewarding arachnids you can keep. Their intelligence, curiosity, and bold personalities set them apart from other spiders, making them feel more like tiny interactive pets than simple display animals. Whether you’re fascinated by their incredible hunting skills, their ability to recognize movement and interact with their environment, or just their expressive little faces, it’s easy to see why they’ve become so popular in the hobby.

Caring for a jumping spider is straightforward, but that doesn’t mean they should be treated as disposable pets. Providing a well-thought-out enclosure, a proper diet, and an enriching environment will allow them to thrive and display their full range of natural behaviors. If you put the time and effort into understanding them, you’ll quickly see just how intelligent and captivating they really are.

If you’re new to keeping arachnids, Phidippus regius is the perfect introduction to the world of spiders. And if you’re already an experienced keeper, chances are you’ll still find yourself amazed by their unique behaviors. No matter where you are in the hobby, one thing is for sure—once you’ve kept a jumping spider, you’ll never look at spiders the same way again.