Blue Foot Baboon Tarantula

Idiothele mira

Care Sheet

Idiothele mira Care Guide

Blue-Footed Baboon Tarantula

Revision Date: March 2025

Introduction

Idiothele mira, commonly known as the Blue-Footed Baboon Tarantula, is a small but highly unique fossorial species native to South Africa. This tarantula is instantly recognizable due to its metallic blue tarsi, a rare feature among African tarantulas. While its size may be modest, its intricate burrowing behavior, heavy webbing tendencies, and defensive nature make it an exciting species for experienced keepers.

Unlike other baboon tarantulas, I. mira is well-known for constructing elaborate trapdoor burrows, using its silk to create a secure, camouflaged entrance. This behavior is rarely seen in tarantulas within the hobby, making this species a fascinating display animal when housed in an appropriate enclosure. Due to its bold temperament, fast movements, and potent venom, I. mira is best suited for advanced keepers.

Quick Species Snapshot

  • Scientific Name: Idiothele mira

  • Common Names: Blue-Footed Baboon Tarantula

  • Type: Fossorial (Trapdoor Burrower)

  • Category: Old World

  • Native Range: South Africa

  • Size: Up to 4” (10 cm) DLS

  • Growth Rate: Medium to Fast

  • Life Expectancy: Females ~12–15 years; Males ~3–4 years

  • Recommended Experience Level: Advanced

  • Urticating Hairs: No

  • Venom Potency: Strong (potentially medically significant)

Taxonomy, Etymology & Natural Environment

Idiothele mira belongs to the Harpactirinae subfamily of African baboon tarantulas, known for their defensive nature and intricate burrowing behaviors. The genus name Idiothele is derived from Greek, meaning "peculiar nipple," referring to unique structures found on the spinnerets of this genus. The species name mira translates to "wonderful" or "astonishing," a fitting description for this distinctive tarantula.

Native to South Africa, I. mira inhabits dry savanna and scrubland regions, where it constructs deep burrows reinforced with trapdoors made of silk, soil, and plant material. These burrows serve as both a defensive structure and an ambush site for prey. This natural behavior is rarely observed in other tarantula species, making it a fascinating addition to a well-maintained collection.

Behavior & Temperament

I. mira is highly defensive, fast-moving, and reclusive. While it is not as aggressive as some African baboon species, it will bite readily if provoked. Like all Old World tarantulas, I. mira lacks urticating hairs and relies on its speed and potent venom as its primary defense mechanisms.

This species is an expert burrower, spending the majority of its time inside its silken trapdoor burrow. Keepers should expect to see little of this species outside of feeding time, making it more of a display tarantula for those who enjoy natural behaviors rather than frequent interactions.

Housing & Substrate – Fossorial Setup

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Spiderlings

  • Enclosure Size: OG Sling Crib, 3” Tarantula Cube, 4” Tarantula Cube

  • Substrate: Fill at least 2/3 of the enclosure with Terra Aranea by The Bio Dude.

  • Humidity: Keep the substrate slightly damp but not swampy. Provide a tiny water dish if space allows or drip water onto webbing weekly.

Juveniles

  • Enclosure Size: Crib 360-4” Fossorial, 5” Hex Crib, 6” Tarantula Cube, 8” Cube

  • Substrate: Fill ½ to ¾ of the enclosure with Terra Aranea by The Bio Dude to support deep burrowing.

  • Humidity: Let part of the substrate dry out while keeping one corner slightly damp by overflowing the water dish occasionally.

  • Additional Features: Cork bark or dried leaves as web anchors.

Adults

  • Enclosure Size: 8” Hex Crib, Crib 360-8” Fossorial, 12” Tarantula Cube, 18” Tarantula Cube

  • Substrate: Fill at least ½–¾ of the enclosure with Terra Aranea by The Bio Dude.

  • Additional Features: A deep burrow setup is essential. I like to add some branches or plants so they can web up around their burrow entrance as well.

Tarantula Cribs offers the best enclosures—use code TTC10 for 10% off.

Temperature & Humidity

  • Temperature: 70–78°F (21–26°C)

  • Humidity: 50–60%

  • Ventilation: Ensure good airflow to prevent stale conditions.

  • Water Dish: Keep one filled and overflow occasionally to maintain a moisture gradient.

Feeding Schedule

Spiderlings

  • Frequency:
    Feed twice a week.

  • Prey:
    Offer small prey such as flightless fruit flies, confused flour beetles, or pre-killed tiny crickets/roach nymphs. Remove any uneaten prey after 24 hours. increase the size of the prey as the spider grows. Prekill any prey that is over 2/3 the size of the sling. For more detailed information on feeding spiderlings, watch this video: How To Feed Spiderlings & Scorplings (Baby Tarantulas & Scorpions)

  • Post-Molt:
    Wait 24–48 hours after a molt before feeding. Ensure that the tarantula’s fangs are solid black and its exoskeleton is not soft or shiny.

Juveniles

  • Frequency:
    Feed every 7–10 days.

  • Prey:
    Provide 2–3 small to medium crickets or a medium Dubia roach.

  • Feeding Guidelines:

    • If the abdomen is thinner than the widest part of the carapace, feed more prey more often.

    • If the abdomen is wider than the carapace, feed less prey, less often.
      This strategy helps prevent obesity, which can lead to molting complications or increase the risk of an abdomen rupture from even a small fall.

  • Post-Molt:
    Wait 3–7 days after a molt before feeding, ensuring that the tarantula’s fangs are solid black and its exoskeleton is fully hardened.

Adults

  • Frequency:
    Feed every 2–3 weeks (or as needed).

  • Prey:
    Offer 4–5 large crickets or one large Dubia roach.

  • Feeding Guidelines:

    • If the abdomen is thinner than the carapace’s widest part, increase feeding frequency.

    • If the abdomen is wider than the carapace, reduce feeding frequency.
      This is crucial to avoid obesity, which can interfere with proper molting or cause dangerous issues such as an abdomen rupture.

  • Post-Molt:
    Wait 5–10 days after a molt before feeding, ensuring that the tarantula’s fangs are solid black and its exoskeleton is fully hardened.

Breeding Idiothele mira in Captivity

(general outline, specifics under revision)

Sexual Maturity & Pairing

  • Males: Reach maturity in 2–3 years.

  • Females: Reach reproductive maturity in 4–5 years.

  • Pairing: Introduce the male into the female’s enclosure at night, ensuring multiple escape routes for him.

Mating Process

  • Males initiate courtship with palp drumming and leg tapping.

  • If receptive, the female will allow insertion before retreating.

  • Males should be removed immediately after mating to prevent potential predation.

Egg Sac Production

  • Females produce an egg sac 4–6 months post-mating.

  • Egg sacs contain 80–200 eggs.

  • Maintain 75-80°F (24-27°C) with high humidity (75-80%).

Raising Spiderlings

  • First instar spiderlings emerge 6-8 weeks post-sac.

  • Feed pinhead crickets or fruit flies every 3-4 days.

  • Provide high humidity with proper airflow.

Challenges & Considerations

  • I. mira’s speed and defensiveness make pairing tricky.

  • Trapdoor burrow behavior means males may have difficulty accessing females, requiring close monitoring.

  • Ethical breeding is crucial to reducing wild collection and sustaining this species in the hobby.

Final Thoughts

Idiothele mira is one of the most fascinating fossorial tarantulas in the hobby, renowned for its trapdoor burrowing behavior and striking blue tarsi. While its care requirements are straightforward for experienced keepers, its aggressive temperament and potent venom make it unsuitable for beginners. This species is best enjoyed as a display tarantula, with its unique hunting strategies and burrowing techniques making for an exciting enclosure setup.

Due to its specialized behaviors and limited distribution, supporting captive breeding efforts is essential to ensure the sustainability of this species in the hobby. If you’re looking for a rare, highly adaptive fossorial species, I. mira is a fantastic addition to a well-maintained collection.

Additional Recommendations

For enclosures, consider Tarantula Cribs (TTC10 for 10% off), and use Terra Aranea by The Bio Dude for substrate. For legal captive-bred tarantulas, check out Spider Shoppe (TTC10 for 10% off).

It all begins with an idea.

This is one of the MOST REQUESTED videos over the past few years. I have avoided making it until now, because fossorial tarantulas are hard to film. Especially since I don't want to dig them up just to make a video. But I think we have figured out a solution to filming these spiders that live underground.

EXPLAINED: Tarantula Scientific Names.

This week we are going to learn how tarantulas and other spiders get their scientific names also known as binomial nomenclature. It isn't as easy as just picking a name at random. So if you have ever wanted to know how and why they come up with these Greek and Latin names that are so hard to pronounce, this is the video for you!

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Orphnaecus philippinus