Velvet Spider / Ladybird Spider

Eresus walckenaeri Care Guide

Mediterranean Ladybird Spider / Greek Velvet Spider

Revision Date: March 2025

Introduction

Eresus walckenaeri, also known as the Mediterranean Ladybird Spider, is one of the most visually striking spiders in the hobby. Males sport that unmistakable bright red abdomen with bold black spots, while females take on a more cryptic appearance, blending into their environment. Native to dry, rocky regions across the Mediterranean, these spiders have some interesting habits, balancing both burrowing and semi-arboreal tendencies. They create silk-lined retreats under rocks and in crevices but will also extend their web tunnels upwards, giving them a bit more range than your typical fossorial species.

While this care guide is focused on Eresus walckenaeri, the care recommendations here also apply to many other velvet spiders in the Eresidae family. If you are looking for care information on species like Eresus sandaliatus (European Ladybird Spider), Eresus kollari, Eresus moravicus, or even some lesser-known species like Eresus ruficapillus, you will find most of the same husbandry principles apply. Even species from the Stegodyphus genus, like Stegodyphus lineatus, share similar environmental needs, although their behavior and web-building techniques differ slightly.

These spiders are an exciting addition to the hobby, but they do have very specific care requirements. They thrive in dry, well-ventilated enclosures, and getting their setup right is key to long-term success. If you are considering keeping Eresus walckenaeri or any of its velvet spider relatives, this guide will give you everything you need to know to set them up for success.

Quick Species Snapshot

• Scientific Name: Eresus walckenaeri

• Common Names: Mediterranean Ladybird Spider, Velvet Spider, Greek Velvet Spider

• Type: Semi-Arboreal

• Category: Old World

• Native Range: Mediterranean regions, including Greece, Turkey, Cyprus, and parts of the Middle East

• Size: Body length up to 1 inch (2.5 cm); leg span up to 2 inches (5 cm)

• Venom Potency: Medically significant (painful bite, though not life-threatening)

• Growth Rate: Slow to moderate

• Life Expectancy: Females up to 8–10 years; males 2–3 years

• Recommended Experience Level: Intermediate to Advanced

Etymology & Taxonomic Notes

The genus Eresus belongs to the velvet spider family (Eresidae), a group of burrowing spiders known for their communal behaviors and unique coloration. The species name walckenaeri honors the French arachnologist Charles Walckenaer, who made significant contributions to spider taxonomy in the 19th century.

Natural Habitat & Unique Behaviors

Eresus walckenaeri is native to the dry, rocky regions of the Mediterranean, where it thrives in arid environments with sparse vegetation. These spiders build silk-lined burrows under stones, in soil crevices, or within plant roots. They reinforce these retreats with thick layers of webbing. Unlike fully fossorial species, they also display semi-arboreal tendencies and often use rocky ledges or elevated surfaces to extend their web tunnels and create reinforced retreats.

One of the most fascinating aspects of this species is its intricate web-building. Their burrows are not just shelters. They function as both defensive structures and hunting platforms. The entrance is often camouflaged with silk and debris, allowing the spider to ambush unsuspecting prey. A unique feature of their silk is its slight pinkish hue. It is subtle, but if you look closely, you can see a faint blush to their webbing, something rarely seen in other spiders. While the reason behind this coloration is not fully understood, it is an interesting trait that sets them apart.

In captivity, Eresus walckenaeri will replicate these burrow-style retreats but often take it a step further. Instead of staying on the ground, they extend their burrows upward, webbing tunnels along enclosure walls, cork bark, or other vertical surfaces. This is where their semi-arboreal tendencies really become obvious. Rather than staying hidden, they actively move around, reinforcing their silk structures and expanding their territory. Providing them with vertical anchor points like small branches or cork bark encourages these natural behaviors and makes for a fascinating display.

Another unique behavior seen in this species is matriphagy, where spiderlings consume their mother after hatching. While this may seem unsettling, it plays a crucial role in their survival by giving them vital nutrients needed for their early instars. This adaptation increases their chances of survival in the harsh Mediterranean climate.

Unlike most arachnids, Eresus walckenaeri is diurnal, meaning it is more active during daylight hours. Males are especially eye-catching with their bright red and black coloration, which serves as a warning signal to predators. Females are more cryptic, blending into their surroundings. Their high silk usage and constant web maintenance make them an incredibly interesting species to observe, both in the wild and in captivity.

Housing & Substrate – Semi-Arboreal Setup

Spiderlings

• Enclosure Size: Use a small acrylic enclosure (e.g., Sling Crib, Canopy Mini, Terrestrial Sling Crib) It is important that their enclosure have plenty of ventilation as a build up of humidity could be fatal. Make sure the ventilation holes are not too wide or the sling might squeeze out and escape. I recommend the OG Sling Crib as it is secure, well ventilated, and crystal clear.

• Substrate: Fill at least 1/3rd - 1/2 of the enclosure with DRY Terra Aranea by The Bio Dude. I like to sprinkle some Exo Terra Stone Desert on the surface, but that is not necessary.

• Humidity: The most important thing about keeping Eresus species is that they need to be kept dry. I mean bone dry substrate and no misting, no water dishes, nothing. They get all the moisture they require from their prey and humid conditions can be fatal to this species in captivity. DO NOT MIST!

• Additional Features: Excelsior makes for a great decoration for the velvet spider to use to anchor their web tunnels. They will burrow if you provide ample substrate, but they will also climb around to hunt and extend their burrow.

Juveniles

• Enclosure Size: Use a medium enclosure (e.g., Cuboid Mini, Slider Crib Mini, 3" Tarantula Cube) that has ventilation holes small enough the spider can not squeeze out.

• Substrate: Fill the enclosure 1/3 to 1/2 full with Terra Aranea by The Bio Dude. Make sure the substrate is dry and add a layer of stone desert or sand for a more arid environment.

• Humidity: No water dish and no misting. They get all the moisture they require from their prey and humid conditions can be fatal to this species in captivity. DO NOT MIST!

• Additional Features: Small twigs or branches that they can use to anchor their web will encourage more elaborate webbing.

Adults

• Enclosure Size: Use an enclosure like the Small Slider Crib, Small Cuboid, 4" Tarantula Cube, or the 6" Tarantula Cube at the most.

• Substrate: Fill the enclosure 1/3 to 1/2 full with Terra Aranea by The Bio Dude to provide ample depth for burrowing while reducing fall distance.

• Additional Features: Sandblasted grapevine is great for velvet spider enclosures. It is light weight, loves dry enviroments and provides a lot of webbing opportunities. Thin branches or lightweight pieces of wood criss-crossed vertically will work as well. Avoid anything heavy.

• Humidity: No water dish and no misting. They get all the moisture they require from their prey and humid conditions can be fatal to this species in captivity. DO NOT MIST!

Note: "Semi‑arboreal" is not an official behavioral classification but rather a descriptive term used in the hobby to design enclosures that allow spiders to display some climbing and web anchoring behavior. For semi‑arboreal species, the enclosure is typically a square or horizontal rectangle rather than a tall arboreal setup. This design minimizes fall distance and risk of injury. Never use an arboreal enclosure for a species that is not truly arboreal.

Affiliate: Please use Tarantula Cribs (affiliate code TTC10) and Terra Aranea by The Bio Dude for substrate.

Temperature & Humidity

• Temperature: Maintain ambient temperatures between 68°F and 76°F (20°C to 24°C). They seem are more active at temperatures above 74f, but do not over heat them.

• Humidity: I will say it again: No water dish and no misting. They get all the moisture they require from their prey and humid conditions can be FATAL to this species in captivity. DO NOT MIST!

Feeding Schedule

Spiderlings

• Frequency:
  Feed twice a week.

• Prey:
  Offer small prey such as flightless fruit flies, confused flour beetles, or pre-killed tiny crickets/roach nymphs. Remove any uneaten prey after 24 hours. increase the size of the prey as the spider grows. Prekill any prey that is over 2/3 the size of the sling. For more detailed information on feeding spiderlings, watch this video: How To Feed Spiderlings

• Post-Molt:
  After molting, Eresus walckenaeri spiderlings need time for their new exoskeleton to fully harden before they can safely eat again. Their fangs start out soft and pale after molting, making it difficult for them to subdue prey. Attempting to feed too soon could stress the spiderling or even result in injury if it cannot properly handle or subdue its food.

  A good rule of thumb is to wait 24 to 48 hours before offering food. However, instead of relying solely on a time frame, it is best to observe your spiderling’s physical condition. Look for its fangs to turn solid black and for the exoskeleton to lose any soft or shiny appearance. These are clear indicators that it is ready to hunt again.

  When reintroducing food, start with something small and manageable, such as a flightless fruit fly or pre-killed pinhead cricket. If the spiderling does not show interest right away, remove the prey and wait another day before trying again. Providing properly timed feedings after a molt ensures healthy growth and reduces the risk of injury during this delicate stage of development.

Juveniles

• Frequency:
  Feed week as needed.

• Prey:
  Provide 2–3 small crickets or a small Dubia roach depending on the size of their abdomen.

• Feeding Guidelines:

  • If the abdomen is getting thin, feed more prey more often.

  • If the abdomen is looking to plump, feed less prey less often or skip all together until after they molt.
    A slightly plump abdomen indicates adequate feeding, while an overly distended abdomen might suggest they are ofer fed, which can lead to health issues.​

• Post-Molt:
  After a molt, juvenile Eresus walckenaeri need a bit more recovery time than spiderlings before they are ready to eat again. Their new exoskeleton starts out soft, and their fangs will be pale or even translucent at first. During this time, they are vulnerable and unable to properly subdue prey. Feeding too early can stress the spider or even lead to injury if it tries to hunt before its fangs are fully hardened.

  It is best to wait 3 to 7 days before offering food, but the most reliable way to tell if your juvenile is ready is by checking its fangs. Once they have turned solid black and the exoskeleton is no longer shiny, it is safe to start feeding again.

  When reintroducing food, start with appropriately sized prey like small crickets or dubia roach nymphs. If your spider does not show interest, remove the food and try again the next day. Molting is a taxing process, and some individuals take longer to regain their appetite. Keeping an eye on their behavior and physical condition will help ensure they are fed at the right time without unnecessary stress.

Adults

• Frequency:
  Feed every 2–3 weeks (or as needed).

• Prey:
  Offer 2-3 medium to large crickets or 1-2 medium Dubia roaches.

• Feeding Guidelines:

  • If the abdomen starts looking thin, increase feeding frequency and/or amount.

  • If the abdomen starts looking distended or like a plump grape, reduce feeding frequency or skip feedings altogether until they molt.
    This is crucial to avoid obesity, which can interfere with proper molting or cause dangerous issues such as an abdomen rupture from a small fall.

• Post-Molt:
  After molting, adult Eresus walckenaeri require even more recovery time before they are ready to eat again. Their exoskeleton takes longer to fully harden compared to juveniles and spiderlings, and their fangs remain soft and pale for several days. Feeding too soon can be risky, as they may struggle to subdue prey or even injure themselves in the process.

  For adults, it is best to wait 5 to 10 days before offering food. However, rather than relying on a strict timeframe, the safest approach is to observe their physical condition. Their fangs should be solid black, and their exoskeleton should no longer appear shiny or soft. These are clear indicators that they have fully recovered and can safely eat again.

  When reintroducing food, if your spider does not show interest right away, remove the prey and try again a few days later. Some adults may take longer to regain their appetite, so patience is key. Ensuring that they are fully hardened before feeding helps prevent injury and supports a smooth recovery after a molt.

Behavior & Temperament

Unlike most spiders, Eresus walckenaeri is diurnal, meaning it is active during the day rather than at night. This makes them a lot more visible and engaging to observe compared to more reclusive, nocturnal species. Instead of waiting for prey to wander into their burrow like many ambush predators, these spiders will actively forage in their enclosure, exploring their web tunnels and searching for food. Watching them navigate their silk-lined retreats and stalk prey in broad daylight is one of the things that makes them so fascinating to keep.

Males and females also behave a bit differently. Males are more active and skittish, often seen moving around their enclosure, especially as they reach maturity. Their bold red-and-black coloration serves as a warning to potential predators, signaling that they are not an easy meal. Females, on the other hand, tend to be more reclusive and cryptic, blending into their surroundings and staying close to their burrow. They are more likely to retreat into their silk tunnels when disturbed rather than bolting around the enclosure like males often do.

While Eresus walckenaeri is not an aggressive species, they will defend themselves if they feel threatened. Their venom is more potent than what you would find in most common pet spiders and can cause localized pain, swelling, and irritation. It is not considered medically significant, but a bite would not be a pleasant experience. Because of this, handling is not recommended. Not only does it put you at risk of an unnecessary bite, but these spiders are small, fast, and delicate, meaning handling could easily result in injury to the spider. Instead, it is best to enjoy them as display animals and let them do their thing undisturbed.

Breeding Eresus walckenaeri in Captivity

(general outline, specifics under revision)

Sexual Maturity & Pairing

• Males mature in 2–3 years, while females take 4–5 years to reach reproductive age.

• Pre-Pairing Preparation: Increase feeding and reduce misting before pairing.

Mating Process

• Introduce the male into the female’s enclosure carefully.

• Males perform intricate leg waving and web vibrations to communicate.

• If receptive, the female will allow the male to approach and mate.

Egg Sac Production

• Females lay 50–100 eggs, typically within a silk-lined burrow or hidden retreat.

• Maintain temperatures around 75°F (24°C) and humidity at 50%.

Egg Sac Handling (Optional)

• Some breeders prefer to pull the sac at 30–40 days for artificial incubation.

• Spiderlings emerge in 6–8 weeks, molting into second instar within 4 weeks.

Raising Spiderlings

• Keep in dry, ventilated enclosures with sand-based substrate.

• Feed small prey every 3–4 days.

• Maintain dry conditions with minimal misting.

Final Thoughts

Eresus walckenaeri is a truly one-of-a-kind species that brings together a unique mix of burrowing and semi-arboreal behaviors. With its bold coloration, intricate silk retreats, and active daytime foraging, this spider is a fascinating species to observe. Watching it construct web tunnels, stalk prey, and reinforce its burrow is an experience unlike keeping most other spiders.

That said, this species does have specific care requirements that make it better suited for intermediate to advanced keepers. Their need for bone-dry conditions and excellent ventilation is critical, and their venom, while not dangerous, is more potent than what most keepers may be used to. Anyone considering this species should be confident in maintaining the right environmental conditions to ensure their long-term health.

With proper care and responsible breeding efforts, we can help sustain Eresus walckenaeri in captivity and reduce the need for wild collection. These spiders are a fantastic addition to the hobby, but they thrive best in the hands of keepers who understand their needs and are willing to put in the effort to maintain a suitable setup.

Additional Recommendations

• For enclosures, check out Tarantula Cribs (use code TTC10 for 10% off).

• Use Terra Aranea by The Bio Dude for optimal substrate.

• For spiders, check out Spider Shoppe (use code TTC10 for 10% off).